From Copan we headed back into Guatemala and up to Rio Dulce, where we enjoyed a night sipping mojitos by the pool at Bruno´s, a yachties haven!

The following morning we boarded a launcha (wooden boat) expecting to take a short ride up the river to the Garifuna town of Livingstone. Three hours later we had fully explored the Chocon-Machacas Nature Reserve which included a scenic boat ride through the mangroves - home to the manatee (sea cow), Rod swimming in thermal springs and shack homes where people who have never seen a road live on the side of the river.

Finally, having arrived at Livingstone in the midday heat, we decided that given our extensive travels over the past few days we should push on to our ultimate destination - Belize.

Here was the problem, the standard ferry didn´t leave until 7.30am the following morning and with Rod due to depart in a few days from Belize City, time was not on our side. So we decided to bite the bullet and hire a private boat to take us over to Punta Gorda, a Belizian port, only to find out that we had been scammed and had paid double the going rate. Worse still, the port´s manager had decided to take a long lunch and we couldn´t leave Guatemala until he had stamped and signed our papers - and we had to make the last bus at 3pm!

The race across the Carribean at top speed was memorable... nothing but blue water, a foreign land in the distance and circling sharks below. Very bond (or the Amazing Race depending on your perspective). Below is a picture of the customs office at Punta Gorda - welcome to Belize!

We decided to visit Copan, a town in Honduras about 15 minutes from the Guatemalan boarder, to take Rod to see some Mayan ruins.

Copan is famous for its well preserved intricate Mayan carvings and hyrogliphics. Its rulers also had some of the coolest names in history such as Smoke Jaguar, 18 Rabbit and Smoke Monkey.

However, the biggest surprise was the town itself. A quaint and colourful colonial town where cowboys gather around the main square, it´s an easy town to enjoy. In addition to the numerous funky bars and restaurants, it is also home of the JAMAICANMECRAZY - a delicious fruit cocktail with 3 different types of rum.

The night got a little crazy after we had exhausted the various happy hours around town and ended up at our hotel (the excellent Via Via Cafe) which had transformed itself into Copan´s party central. Jack and Rod ended the night at a jungle reggae bar complete with bamboo swings and local thugs!

Another day, another hangover, another long bus ride...

Guatemala City is one big, ugly, uninviting place. The sole purpose of our trip to "el capital" was to pick up Rod at 10pm from the airport and get on a bus to Honduras the following morning at 5am.

We surprised Rod and managed to grab a few Gallos (local Guatemalan brew) at what could only be compared with the local RSL before returning for a couple hours of sleeeeeeeeep.

The first stop on our tri-nations trip was Antigua - a pretty colonial town (think bright colours and cobblestone streets) which used to be the capital city of Guatemala before HQ was moved to Guatemala City.

Most people visiting Guatemala go to Antigua, so in addition to some cosmopolitan bars and restaurants you are likely to find hordes of tourists.

The highlight of our stay was our visit to Casa Popenoe - a stunning colonial mansion built in the 17th century which was home to Antigua's royal officials. In addition to beautifully coloured and decorated rooms and manicured gardens in various courtyards, the mansion comes fully equipped with a room to house your homing pigeons!

Farewell San Pedro!


This morning we leave San Pedro for Antigua and the much anticipated trip to Belize with Rod. That's right, someone has actually come all that way from Australia to visit us - might be worth thinking about for anyone reading this (particularly as we are going to manage a nice little hotel for 2 months...).

Our farewell, last night, was suitably weird. We cooked dinner for our landlord and housemates... Then we were taken to a local speakeasy to sample some moonshine. We then made a visit to an infamous Cantina, a local drinking hole for local men only. Fortunately we were escorted by two locals and they were needed as the place was full of total drunks. Dark, dirty... more like a slum really. We literally ran out of the place being chased by a guy who we had denied free booze.

It's sad to leave, but very exciting to see a new country and Antigua - the most visited Guatemalan city and well known as a charming colonial town. We will miss Poppy, but have made our contribution to the community by paying for her to be de-sexed, a move that has convinced our landlord to take care of her.

On our return from Belize we will managing a hotel for a couple while they travel in Europe. The timing couldn't be better and we can continue studying Spanish while working with the 6 local staff. Check out the hotel via the link on the right.

Finally, for interested parties and our own records here is a San Pedro Price Index (AUD):

- One night's accomodation $2 pp
- One litre of beer $3.20
- Cheapest burger in town $1.20
- Street snack (tostada: big crispy tortilla filled with chicken, veggies, salsa, avocado etc) .35c
- One hour of spanish tutition (1 professor for 2 people) $2 pp

Yesterday we headed to the annual "fiesta" in the nearby town of Santa Clara.

We had been told that there would be a bull fight and that we may even get to dance with the queen of the village. However, in truth, Santa Clara's big day consisted of two bands playing directly next to each other with all the town drunks (total approx. 5) dancing and everyone else watching, an old ferris wheel in the corn fields, the usual Guatemalan market stalls selling everything from shampoo to shoes and some funky games for the (big) kids.

We made our way home after the fiesta via collectivo (or 3), ie standing in the back of a truck with the locals, clutching a recent purchase of a bunch of spring onions. It was a true Guatemalan experience and we got to meet some of the locals like the funky 4ft granny above!

Tell your people, that our people are churnin!

We have had some good times with our neighbours here in San Pedro, Danny and Cathryn, a couple from Belfast who are visiting town for the 3rd time in 6 years! I think it is fair to say they are considered San Pedro veterans and know almost everyone in town.

Not to mention, they love a drink or two and have kept us entertained with a steady supply of bad, no - really bad, jokes. Jack has also found them great inspiration for perfecting his Irish accent.

Chichicastenango is said to have the biggest market in the whole of Guatemala. Last Sunday we boarded a shuttle to check it out for ourselves.

Artisans from all over Guatemala come to Chichi to fleece their textiles and handicrafts. The market was indeed huge taking up most of the streets of the town. The quality of goods varied and it was not uncommon to see the same things over and over again - clearly every tourist needs a chicken shaped oven mit! However, the general buzz and colour of market day in Chichi made it well worth the visit.

We were particularly keen to visit Chichi as we had been told that it was home to an unusual animal market. We found two animal markets, both oddly located in building labelled as toilets. We were expecting monkeys, sloths and exotic birds and were a little disappointed to only find your run of the mill chickens, a couple of old turkeys and a few pot-bellied pigs who were probably going to end up as dinner...

One of the best things about studying Spanish has been hanging out and chatting with the locals on the street and the kids down at the dock.

It has given us an interesting insight into the people of San Pedro. For example, a late night man-to-man discussion between Jack and Manual, our landlord, revealed a surprisingly liberal view regarding sex and extra-marital afairs, which are apparently common place here despite the fact that Guatemala is full of church-goers. The desire of the local chicos (boys) to hook themselves a foreigner (aka¨cash on legs¨) is also ever present. Young men are constantly asking us questions about the status of our relationship...

Last Sunday we took a trip to Panajachel, a town on the other side of the lake. We were surprised to find that tucked behind the main drag Pana has a beautiful beach right on the lake where locals were chatting while they snacked on freshly cut fruit. Being amongst locals was a refreshing change from the gringo-filled streets of San Pedro...

We also stumbled across a bus terminal filled with old US school buses which had been transformed into multi-coloured Guatemalan speedsters - the famous "chicken buses". We monstered one of Jerry's famous burgers with great coleslaw before taking a late afternoon boat back across the lake where we got to enjoy the view alongside el capitan.